The Moccasin
construction is one of the oldest methods to make a shoe. It is historically
the original footwear of the North American native population as well as
hunters, traders and European settlers. The construction consists of upper,
quarters and insole in one piece stitched together with a vamp apron on top.
The moccasin was originally constructed without any hard sole to make the
wearer feel the ground and make less noise. The moccasin construction is at
it´s core a very soft and flexible construction but depending on the making can
be more built up as well. Not all shoes featuring moccasin stitches are having
a true moccasin construction with a separated vamp apron.
Generally moccasins are recognized by the vamp apron with defined stitching creating a soft and flexible construction. Moccasins can be made with or without hard outsole.
Method
The moccasin has a single layer section forming the insole and quarters. The last is put in the insole and a vamp “apron” stretched on top of the last. The stretched apron is stitched to the gathered edges of the quarters around the last creating the characteristic look. The outsole is then either attached by cement or by blake stitching.
Genuine Handsewn
Many higher-end moccasins utilize “genuine handsewn on the last” construction. It’s widely recognized as a way to craft an extremely comfortable pair of shoes.
Genuine handsewn uppers are shaped and fitted to a last with simple tools and then sewn and tacked together by hand on that last. This creates an upper that is incredibly comfortable and flexible.